Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
